Saturday, 15 September 2012

FRANCE - Normandy

Normandy was everything that we remembered and more.  The cider was more drinkable this time and it is my guess that it was our palettes that had improved more so than the local brew.  Here I go walking to a Cider farm to buy supplies for our  month down south.  We found some 2% cider as well as Pommeau and Calvados.  All products made from apples.
We hit our stride within the first hours having indulged on the road for the previous two evenings.  We were both surprised that it had been seven and a half years since our last visit to the region . . .  Seven and a half years since our first overseas jaunt . . .  Seven and a half years since the beginning of our love affair with France . . .  
I acted as the driver while on the Mr’s travels to the beaches.  The Mr was in seventh heaven with a vast increase in his intake of historical experiences.  
Our first evening was spent in The Mulberry Hotel, Arromanches.  It was Bastille Day so we alighted to the Town Square for the 11pm fireworks display.  It was a spirited display with not a word of French in its soundtrack.  Just some funky-arsed, hip schwinging, Beyoncé inspired rubbish {a little disappointing – for a D-Day location on Bastille Day}
The Mulberry Hotel to the left of the church.

We checked out the 360 degree cinema which aired a twenty minute show aimed at immersing its audience in the landing and ensuing battle.  Highly emotive stuff!  After years of osmosis, I am truly starting to appreciate what it’s all about.  The numbers were beyond comprehension.  The terrain and its inhabitants were rustique and beautiful.  There were many American tourists, as you would imagine.

The view back over Aramanches on the way to the 360 cinema.
Look at what we found near the top.  Not another tank!

The town of Arromanches was lovely, if a little touristy, as one would expect.  We enjoyed a crepe for lunch and were impressed by the naughty 'graffiti' kids we discovered.
Second night saw us safely to Carentan where we stayed in the most gorgeous of Logis, called the Auberge Normande.  Again with the pink with splashes of purple ;)  I had the best entree ever!  It was the local speciality, 'a plate full of seashells'.  This meal was unique in that each meal grew progressively smaller.  A nice change :)

We spent the final day at a couple of sites and of particular significance was Brecourt Manor.  For research purposes, the Mr insisted that I watch the third episode of Band of Brothers, to prepare me for the scope of what happened there. 

We also enjoyed some time in Sainte Mere-Eglise.  The village is one of the places where the 101st Airborne landed.  It's the one where the paratrooper, John Steele, was hanging from the church spire. The Mr was wrapped to see the life-size memorial still dangling above us.


Before we headed back to Monpatry to finish our time in Normandy, we visited the Biscuiterie in Sainte Mere-Eglise.  Yummo!  We gathered our biscuit supply to take south with us :)

Thursday, 6 September 2012

FRANCE - Monpatry

On the third day of our journey we arrived in the small hamlet of Monpatry, near Domfront in Normandy.  We were to spend some time with our Fraussie friends and their new baby girl.
The home that they were gifted with for the 'northern' summer is owned by an Australian couple, with whom Cyril, collaborates.  Over the course of seven years they have successfully restored what was once a cellar, into a charming, country retreat.  C'est bon!
 The home was surrounded by lush, green countryside.  A reminder that part of the joy of time spent in Normandy is the five C's:  Cream   -   Camembert   -   Cidre   -   Calvados   - Crepes
In total we spent four nights, with the weekend spent stomping around the Normandy beaches in search of our first Bastille Party.  Happy fourteenth of July!

Friday, 20 July 2012

FRANCE - Geneva to Normandy

I flew the red-eye with the Mr and the Nephew from Abu Dhabi to Geneva.  Following a little drinky and a 1am meal in the Etihad Lounge, we boarded and promptly laid ourselves down upon four seats apiece. It is a rare moment indeed when one can 'honestly' say that one preferred to fly cattle-class {economy} on an international flight!

After saying our farewells to the Nephew whom was travelling to Lyon via the train, the Mr and I made the call to organise the little beast {leased directly through the manufacturer to non-EU citizens, thereby negating EU taxes} that was to be our chariot for the next forty-two days.  We exited Geneva airport on the French side and hit the road at the absurdly early hour of 8am.  Weaving through the lovely alpine region that spans the French-Swiss border, our first challenge was to source some fuel for the car - an ironic conundrum for people who reside in the Arab Emirates :)  The cost was outrageous at approximately 4.5 times the cost in the Dhab!

After about three hours on the road, our destination looming, we decided that our first meal would be a picnic.  Following a five minute stop in Carrefour that quickly became an extended excursion, we paid for our goodies and were eventually back on the road.

Last time we were in France, we travelled at speed via the Autoroute.  'Never again' we swore and were beginning to see what we had previously missed!  Although the route was at times narrow and little faster than 50km per hour, we were having a marvellous time!  Through small gaps between village buildings, I could make out some greenery that meandered pleasantly downwards towards the main road upon which we were travelling.  The Mr and I decided to turn down the next available lane and were delighted to discover that the village was surrounded by vineyards.
I, obeying the instruction of the Mr 'Photographer', assessed the angle of the midday sun and positioned the car accordingly.  I promptly produced my Swiss Army knife and was impressed by the Mr's proficiency at wine-cork removal.  We sat and walked and drank and ate in that vineyard for quite some time . . .
We eventually relaxed and stopped hiding the wine each time a harvester or tractor drove by.  The locals were friendly and always returned our wave with a flick of the hand and a smile on their weather-worn faces.  Once we were through our goodies, we reluctantly packed up and proceeded along the road a little way to the village of Autun.  Our chatteau for the evening was Les Ursulines.
We were looking forward to our menu for the evening as the Chatteau, although a little run-down {on the inside, more so than outside} was celebrated for its food.  The food however, delicious as it was, was outdone by the graciousness of each patron within the restaurant.  Upon entry we were greeted with a polite 'bonsoir' by each and every one of our fellow diners.  How welcoming!  How charming!  How FRENCH!!!  Following our three-course meal, we set off to explore the cobble-stoned village with a beautiful cathedral at its centre.
The next morning we continued our journey via the croix rouge, that overlooked Autun.
Our position was such that we were convinced that it would make an adequate launch site for flying.  Sure enough, we eventually spotted the windsock tucked in just below the tree line :)  Another reminder that my superpower of choice would be the ability to fly!
 
Back on the road, winding our way through villages and rolling, green pastures, we stopped for déjeuner in a bistrot by  the Canal lateral a la Loire.  At this stage in our trip, I was committed to a dietary and exercise regime, therefore I enjoyed a garden salad with my glass of red, while the Mr leapt straight in and enjoyed escargot followed by a grilled steak!
We continued along the canal for some time until the water was replaced by open fields and eventually covered in by the forest.  Through the forest we trundled until we happened upon Le Manoir de la Foret, north of Blois.  It was très romantique!  There we were tucked away in a stately manor, hidden amongst the trees with the rain falling softly around our v-e-r-y PINK room ;)  My poor Mr was quite beside himself, particularly as he discovered how delighted I was with the décor.  Nevermind . . .  He was softened up with a glass of Crémant and agreed to photograph our view, if not the interior!
In the evening, we enjoyed another delicious menu for dinner, followed by a quiet and peaceful sleep.  The next morning we checked out and began the final leg to our Northern destination - Monpatry, Normandie . . .